Grant Wood Scenic Byway

[Brooke Kohlsdorf] On this episode of Road Trip Iowa, we're traveling the Grant Wood Scenic Byway. We'll explore the limestone and the landscapes that inspired Iowa's best-known artist. With additional stops both on and off road.

(Brooke rides in an off-road vehicle through the woods.)

I don't think amateurs could be doing this.

(Laughter)

Next, on Road Trip Iowa.

[Announcer] Kwik Star is proud to be a part of Iowa communities across the state. Family owned for over 50 years, we're dedicated to treating our guests, employees and communities as we would like to be treated.

Musco Lighting is an Iowa company that travels across the U.S. and to more than 125 countries to light community recreation fields, stadiums, airports, monuments and more. While our reach is global, we're committed to our local communities.

The Gilchrist Foundation, founded by Jocelyn Gilchrist, furthering the philanthropic interests of the Gilchrist family in wildlife and conservation, the arts and public broadcasting and disaster relief.

[Brooke] From Stone City to the Mississippi River, the Grant Wood Scenic Byway is an 80-mile journey through the picturesque countryside that inspired Iowa's most famous artist. With patchwork farm fields and limestone bluffs, the landscape is the main attraction on this byway, which includes three rivers and three state parks. Let's take a look at our itinerary.

We'll go inside at the Anamosa State Penitentiary Museum. Wander deep into the Maquoketa caves. Catch a concert at an unlikely venue. And we'll hit the trails for some all-terrain excitement.

But first, we head to Anamosa, the birth place of Grant Wood, whose Depression era paintings transformed scenes from the American Midwest into iconic works of art. Pull into Jones County and there is no question you've entered Grant Wood country. Look in any direction to see a Grant Wood painting come to life. Learn more about this influential artist on Anamosa's main street at the Grant Wood Art Gallery.

[Brad Hatcher] Grant Wood was born about three and a half miles east of here on a small farm. And lived here for the first ten years of his life until his father died and then his mother and sister moved to Cedar Rapids. He got his first schooling here at the Antioch Church. He loved this area because of its landscaping and that kind of stuff.

[Brooke] Born in 1891, Grant Wood was a pioneer in the regionalist art movement of the 1930s. His dream-like paintings celebrated themes of manual labor and pastoral beauty at a time when rural America had been devastated by the Great Depression. Wood studied art in Minneapolis and Chicago and he made his living as a teacher. He served in World War I and, like other artists of his generation, he went to Europe in search of inspiration. But he would find his artistic voice in coming home.

[Brad] He just came back to what he loved and that was this area and so that is what he painted. One of his quotes was, the best ideas he ever got was sitting underneath a cow milking it. And he believed that there could be great art by people just painting what they knew.

[Brooke] Wood drew from his own environment in 1930 to create the quintessential regionalist painting American Gothic.

Inspired by an Eldon, Iowa farmhouse featuring a unique gothic window, the artist recruited his sister and a local dentist to model as farmers in the painting's foreground. A pitch fork propped between them completes the scene. The iconic image struck a chord as a symbol of rural stoicism in the face of the Depression. It would become one of the best-known artistic works of the 20th century.

[Brad] When I was a bus tour guide, we'd get a lot of people from all over the country. When I would tell them about Grant Wood was born here and lived here most of his life, if I'd get a blank look, I would just hold up the American Gothic picture above it and everybody would go oh, that's who we're talking about. I've been told that it's the second most recognizable painting in the world behind Mona Lisa.

[Brooke] The Grant Wood Art Gallery offers a comprehensive look at the painter's career and insights on his local inspirations, including neighboring Stone City with its patented limestone structures, a perilous highway bend on the edge of town, and a tribute to ag innovation in nearby Viola.

[Brad] He was able to touch something personal in everybody with the harvest dinners and working in the gardens and that kind of stuff. That was things that you grew up with. He was able to touch something that everyone recognized.

(Nature sounds)

[Brooke] No visit to Anamosa is complete without a stop at Wapsipinicon State Park located just south of town on the Wapsipinicon River, known locally as the Wapsi.

Spanning 394 acres, Wapsipinicon is one of the oldest state parks in Iowa. It has the unique distinction of being listed in its entirety in the National Register of Historic Places. Enjoy dynamic views from the sandstone and limestone bluffs overlooking the Wapsi River. Take a walk over the state's longest bow string truss bridge. At 296 feet, the Hale Bridge was built in 1879 in the downstream village of Hale.

In 2006, the Iowa National Guard used two schnook helicopters to move the structure to its current location where it is used as a pedestrian walkway. The interior park features walking trails, numerous caves and stone arch bridges built from local limestone and constructed by inmates from nearby Anamosa State Penitentiary. Explore Wapsipinicon State Park for one of the best nature experiences Grant Wood country has to offer.

Local limestone is on display in grand fashion at the Anamosa State Penitentiary. This towering gothic revival prison was built by inmates and has been in operation for more than 150 years. Learn the story behind the facility at the Anamosa State Penitentiary Museum.

[Steve Wendl] Well, the first thing that most people notice is the architecture. In a small little Iowa town like Anamosa rose this magnificent structure. In fact, most inmates when they are brought here by the local sheriff and they first see this place, they are completely overwhelmed. They'll tell you, even years later they'll tell you, I still remember that day when I first crested the hill and saw that place. It's like somebody transported a European castle into this small Iowa town.

[Brooke] Steve Wendl spent 31 years as a correctional counselor at Anamosa. He co-founded the museum with another counselor, the late Dick Snavely. They found the perfect museum location just outside the prison walls in a building that had once housed an inmate-operated cheese factory.

[Steve] Neither one of us were museum people. But we toured a lot and we tried to absorb as much as we could about how to construct this place. We had very little in terms of finance. He was able to get a state of Iowa grant. We had to decide what would appeal most to folks. Certainly, you wanted to have a construction element. That was such an important part of it because people are intrigued by the outside of the place. They're also intrigued about the inside of the place.

A prison is run very much like a small community. That's what it is. It's a community of a thousand. And so, you have to have all the basics. Part of our job is to show them elements of that small city.

[Brooke] Exhibits include the tools of the prison trade, a gallery of Anamosa's infamous inmates, and a history of convict-created artwork, which is both in display and available for purchase. Photos and memorabilia tell the story of the prison's years as the Iowa State Reformatory, an era when members of the public were welcomed inside for tours, joint church services and sporting events.

[Steve] We no longer offer those tours. And so, part of our notion was the story still needs to be told, that curiosity hasn't gone away, people are still wanting to know about this place. Well, in lieu of no more tours, we have this.

[Brooke] Next, we're headed to Maquoketa for a journey deep into one of Iowa's first state parks. Head east to Jackson County for an outdoor experience millions of years in the making at Maquoketa Caves State Park. A popular destination since the 1860s, the Maquoketa Caves are part of the Driftless Area and were untouched by glaciers during the last Ice Age.

Explore a network of winding trails and narrow passageways carved over centuries by water. Above ground, the connected walkways lead visitors to picturesque limestone bluffs and natural bridges. Whether you're a seasoned spelunker, a natural history enthusiast, or just looking for a day of family fun, Maquoketa Caves State Park offers something for you.

Head into Maquoketa for a different view of nature at the Hurstville Interpretive Center. Headquarters to the Jackson County Conservation team, Hurstville tells the story of the area's natural history through exhibits and activities.

[Jessica Wagner] So, here at the Interpretive Center our goal is to really educate people about Iowa's natural resources. And so, we have a lot of displays here in our indoor space that depict the prairies, the wetlands and the woodlands of Iowa. So, those are our three major ecosystems in our area. And so, we really want people to learn about that natural environment. And then we really encourage people after spending some time indoors, go outside, go explore. People can explore and wander through a reconstructed prairie. We have a pollinator garden. And so, kind of educating about planting native species, whether that is trees, shrubs or wildflowers and grasses and sedges. We also have a small frog pond. You will often see in the summertime kids taking off their shoes and socks, wading right in there. Yep, it's a leopard frog. We are actively encouraging people, get out and discover what is out here.

[Brooke] A busy roadside may be an unusual location for a nature center. But for Hurstville's restored prairie and wetlands, the blacktop is where it all began.

[Jessica] In the late 1990s, early 2000s, Highway 61 was being turned into a four-lane highway. They had to mitigate wetlands and so they turned to the county to say hey, would the county like to manage these wetlands? And it was kind of an opportunity for the conservation department to step in and say hey, this would be a good opportunity for an educational center with access to the highway, visible for people to stop.

[Brooke] Opened in 2004, the center welcomes between 7,000 and 10,000 visitors annually and sits proudly on the Grant Wood Scenic Byway.

[Jessica] What I really like about the Grant Wood Scenic Byway is the scenic part. And I really think the Hurstville Interpretive Center fits in that really nicely. Visit on a summer day when the prairie is in full bloom and just really enjoy the natural landscapes that inspired Grant Wood.

[Brooke] Since 2009, music bands have ventured the outskirts of Maquoketa where they park their cars, board an old school bus and disappear down a winding gravel road. Their destination, Codfish Hollow Barnstormers, a concert venue unlike any other.

[Tiffany Biehl] My grandpa built this barn in 1954. And we host concerts. There's free camping. Kind of like a little mini festival.

[Jen Hazer] First off, the barn itself, and it's just the atmosphere. I mean, I've talked to so many people that the word they use to describe it is magical, and it is.

Codfish Hollow!

(Crowd cheering)

[Tiffany] The first show we didn't have a stage. We didn't have a sound booth. We didn't have any of that. We didn't think we might ever do it again until it happened and then we were like, that was very awesome, let's keep doing this.

[Brooke] Owner Tiffany Biehl and her husband Shawn had no background in music promotion before booking their first barn concert. But they built it, and the people came.

[Tiffany] In the beginning it was just get all the hay and the cows out of the barn so that we could have our first concert. Bands had a good enough time here that they told their friends and their friends told their friends and then they just started coming.

[Rob Goerg] This is probably my fifth time, maybe sixth time here. I mean, this place is like one in a million. There's no other place like this in the whole world.

[Brooke] As word of mouth spread, this little barn outside of Maquoketa began to attract some very big names.

[John Rushton] It's fun to see people who have never been here before come and just look and see all of the signs that are up on the ceiling. Nathaniel Rateliff & the Night Sweats, Dawes, Counting Crows have been here, Norah Jones has been here. So many other bands that you might not necessarily hear about on mainstream radio are here.

[Robert Siegwarth] It's a challenge sometimes because it's a barn. There's no heat or air conditioning, so basically, we have to load in, load out every show. Share the barn with a lot of critters, mice and birds and you can even hear them in the background. Our goal is to make the best possible sound for everybody in here, for the bands, for the patrons, for everyone.

[Tiffany] We just give the bands everything that we have out here. I basically hand my house over to them and tell them the house is yours, except we started now that we're old enough, or older, we keep our own bedroom, my husband and I. But in the olden days we gave that up too and slept on the floor. But we give them lunch, supper, bands will stay overnight in the house and then we cook them breakfast before they're on their way the next day.

This is definitely the coolest place I've ever played.

(Crowd cheering)

[Robert] I heard one of our more veteran bands telling a band that was opening for them that had never been here before that Codfish was a destination venue and that you might come play here just so you get to come spend the day here. And I thought that was like a huge compliment.

[Brooke] Our journey through Grant Wood country continues off road in rural Spragueville at Whispering Meadows Resort. This cabin getaway combines the tranquility of nature with the thrill of all-terrain vehicles. Featuring a fishing pond, a small golf course and 30 miles of trails, Whispering Meadows is a passion project for owner Steve Tebbe whose affection for this land dates back to his childhood. Steve, we're here at Whispering Meadows Resort, your place. Tell us a little bit about it.

[Steve Tebbe] Well, we have a resort actually that's actually on 300 acres plus. My parents actually owned this property prior to myself. In my childhood, I would come down here hunting and things like that. And it's kind of one of those places where you could kind of be with yourself and it kind of felt like you were almost getting closer to God for some reason.

[Brooke] So, that experience you had, you wanted to help bring to others.

[Steve] Exactly, exactly. Back in '95 then my parents wanted to sell it. Well, we decided then to go ahead and purchase it and then in 1998 we began building cabins. In '99 we built the second cabin. In 2002, we built another cabin that was a larger cabin. So, we can support about 28 people here. It evolved to the side-by-side ATV aspect. That came to be very, very popular about five to seven years ago. So, we decided then to go ahead and open up some ATV trails as well.

I did actually own a couple of ATV side-by-sides. So, we decided then to take some friends of our out just riding some of the property that I had here. And one of the gentlemen says, you know Steve, did you ever think about opening up some ATV trails to enjoy like what we just had here today? And I said, nope, never thought of that. So, then I had another gentleman that had a skid loader with a cutter on it, so he actually came out then and cut some trails. I put the flags out and he just followed right where I put the flags. So, at that point then we had 10 miles of trail. And it has now evolved into 30 miles.

[Brooke] So, it took a lot of work.

[Steve] A lot of work. Would you like to have a little tour of the trails?

[Brooke] I would love to. Let's take a ride.

[Steve] Sounds great.

[Brooke] Golf course.

[Steve] Yeah, this is a little piece of our golf course here, there and another flag is up there.

[Brooke] Yeah, I don't think amateurs could be doing this. Pretty much rough terrain. I think I'd like to take it for a ride.

[Steve] All right, let's get after it, okay?

[Brooke] Okay. Okay, here we go!

[Steve] All right!

[Brooke] Am I driving too fast?

[Steve] You're doing fine.

[Steve] Drive over along on the dike of the pond. I think you can handle that. You won't put here in the drain I don't think.

[Brooke] Hopefully.

Where Grant Wood used to paint brush, Steve Tebbe transformed his family farm into an off-roading destination resort. There are many ways to appreciate and enjoy the natural beauty of eastern Iowa. All it takes is a little creativity. Follow the Grant Wood Scenic Byway to its eastern terminus in Bellevue and you'll be rewarded with unique brews and pleasant views at River Ridge Brewing.

[Samie Simon] I would say River Ridge is known for brews with a view, like brews and views. If you want a brew and you want a good view, you would come here.

[Brooke] Location is the thing at River Ridge. Dating back to 1860, this warehouse was once home to an International Harvester workshop and showroom and sits neatly alongside the Mississippi River.

[Samie] Textile Brewing in Dyersville acquired River Ridge in the fall of '22. The owners were just simply looking to move on and we came here and looked at it, saw the view and we're like, this is amazing. But we knew when we came to Bellevue the main thing we wanted to do was keep the core values. We wanted to keep it River Ridge Brewery. People were so fond of this brewery that they had created in this little town.

[Brooke] River Ridge has become a community staple, thanks to its signature variety of lagers, blondes, IPAs, ambers, sours and stouts as well as experimental brews, plus a patio like no other.

[Man 1] This is their Oar What IPA.

[Man 2] What was it?

[Man 1] The Oar What. O-a-r. Oar What.

(Laughter)

[Man 2] You said it right.

[Man 1] Yeah, a lot of them are river-oriented names.

[Woman 1] Honey blonde.

[Man 2] There's only one. What is it gang?

[Man 1] Amber.

[Man 2] Amber.

[Man 3] The river and this patio it's a great attraction. Friday, Saturday and Sunday is pretty darn busy here on the patio. A lot of times not very many people inside because you just can't beat this view.

[Samie] Bellevue, beautiful view. Bellevue is a very tight knit, close community. We're very proud of our little town. If someone were traveling the Grant Wood Scenic Byway, I would say River Ridge would need to be a stop for them so that they could enjoy one of our amazing brews with an amazing view and enjoy just the little spot on the Mississippi that you really won't find anywhere else.

[Brooke] With vistas straight out of a painting, it's no surprise the landscapes along the Grant Wood Scenic Byway have inspired Iowans for generations.

We studied the life and work of artist Grant Wood. Stretched our legs at the Hurstville Interpretive Center. Saw a concert in a barn at Codfish Hollow. And we took in the view at a patio overlooking the Mississippi River.

A trip down the Grant Wood Scenic Byway is sure to spark your creativity. So, grab some paint and a brush, pick a hillside and get started on your masterpiece today. For more on the history, culture and landscapes along Iowa's scenic byways, join us next time on Road Trip Iowa.

[Announcer] Kwik Star is proud to be a part of Iowa communities across the state. Family owned for over 50 years, we're dedicated to treating our guests, employees and communities as we would like to be treated.

Musco Lighting is an Iowa company that travels across the U.S. and to more than 125 countries to light community recreation fields, stadiums, airports, monuments and more. While our reach is global, we're committed to our local communities.

The Gilchrist Foundation, founded by Jocelyn Gilchrist, furthering the philanthropic interests of the Gilchrist family in wildlife and conservation, the arts and public broadcasting and disaster relief.