Highway 20

[Brooke Kohlsdorf] On this episode of Road Trip Iowa, we explore the eastern stretch of highway 20. 

It feels a little bit like you're riding a bicycle, except the wheels are above your head instead of underneath your feet.

[Kohlsdorf] Oh my gosh. Not scared. 

[Kohlsdorf] From Waterloo to Dubuque, this route offers big attractions, small treasures and plenty of delights to discover in between.

[Leanne Harrison] Us locals say it's always been here, you know.

[Kohlsdorf] Next on Road Trip Iowa.

[Announcer] Musco Lighting is an Iowa company that travels across the US and to more than 125 countries to light community recreation fields, stadiums, airports, monuments and more. While our reach is global, we're committed to our local communities. 

[Announcer] Beverly Thomassen Schultz -- honored to support local programming on Iowa PBS.

[Kohlsdorf] Extending over 3,000 miles from Massachusetts to Oregon, highway 20 is the longest highway in America. In northern Iowa, it serves as a main thoroughfare from the Mississippi to the Missouri River. Today, we're following this well-traveled route from Waterloo to Dubuque. Let's take a look at today's itinerary.

[Kohlsdorf] We'll pull off the highway for three larger than life roadside attractions. Tour a historic mill perched on the Wapsipinicon River. Explore a big collection of small toys. And get a taste of upscale dining from an award winning chef. We begin at George Wyth State Park, a riverside retreat outside Waterloo.

[Kohlsdorf] Tucked between Cedar Falls and Waterloo on the banks of the Cedar River. George Wyth State Park offers a natural escape just beyond the city.

[Kohlsdorf] George Wyth was a Cedar Falls businessman who dedicated time to establishing the city's park system. The state park was named in his honor in 1956. The park's four lakes make this a paddler's paradise, with ample opportunities for fishing, swimming and spending time on the water. On dry land, hikers and bikers will find 13 miles of trails to explore.

[Kohlsdorf] Camping spots are available for those looking to spend a few days in this secluded outdoor retreat.

[Kohlsdorf] Pull off the highway and discover this state park just outside the city limits.

[Kohlsdorf] Novelty roadside attractions are a highlight of any great road trip and travelers crossing highway 20, never far from the crew stops that are too big to miss.

[Megan Bannister] A lot of them, especially from the 50s and 60s, were ways to get people to pull off the interstate or pull off of the two lane highway and spend time in a community.

[Kohlsdorf] Iowa's largest frying pan sits just 15 minutes south of highway 20 in Brandon.

[Megan Bannister] The giant frying pan in Brandon was created in 2004 as a way for Brandon to promote their annual Cowboy Breakfast.

[Kohlsdorf] With room for 44 dozen eggs and 88 pounds of bacon, this skillet is a super sized replica of the cast iron cookware used during Brandon's Cowboy Breakfast. Held each fall, the event serves as a fundraiser for the city's community center. Measuring more than 14 feet tall and weighing over 1,000 pounds, it's a pan fit for a very hearty meal.

[Megan Bannister] Strawberry Point was founded in the 1890s and is reportedly named for the prevalence of wild strawberries in the area. And so, like many communities, they decided in the 50s and 60s that they wanted a reason for people to stop. And they also wanted to sort of pay tribute to their name.

[Kohlsdorf] Known by residents as the world's largest strawberry, it was commissioned by the Strawberry Point Jaycees and installed atop City Hall in 1967. The record setting fruit is made of fiberglass and stands 15 feet tall and 12 feet wide.

[birds chirping]

[Kohlsdorf] In the tiny town of Ryan, a big umpire watches over the City Park ball field.

[Megan Bannister] The big umpire in Ryan is reportedly the world's largest, but it originally was the mascot for a Happy Chef restaurant in eastern Iowa.

[Kohlsdorf] Trading in his wooden spoon and chef's hat for a face mask and chest protector this 18 foot tall official honors the area's love of baseball. It's safe to say this stop off the highway is a real home run.

[Kohlsdorf] In the heart of Independence, a relic of the city's past towers above the west bank of the Wapsipinicon River.

[Kohlsdorf] In its heyday, the Wapsipinicon feed mill stood among the largest grist mills in the state of Iowa.

[Leanne Harrison] The mill was built in 1867 to 1870. It took three years to build a timber brick veneer, six story building, which was quite an effort in that era. The mill originally was for grinding, for flour. They had wheat, and then they turned to oats and corn. 

[Kohlsdorf] 101 windows provided natural light and ventilation during the building's century of operation as a mill. Production came to a close in 1976, and the building was donated to the Buchanan County Historical Society.

[Leanne Harrison] Throughout the years, we, the Historical Society, have spent over $1 million on renovations. We believe this is a worthwhile building to preserve. It is on the National Register of Historic Places. And when anybody ever hears about Independence, they always comment about the Wapsy Mill.

[Kohlsdorf] Today, the mill serves as a museum, preserving the story of both the building and the community it helped to shape. Much of the machinery still sits in its original place, too massive to be moved. For more than 150 years, the mill has stood at the edge of downtown Independence as an enduring symbol of the city's history.

[Leanne Harrison] The town itself kind of built around it. Us locals say it's always been here, you know. It's a magnificent building.

[Kohlsdorf] While most of Iowa's state parks are known for their natural landscapes, our next stop is defined by a man made wonder.

[Katie Hund] We have 426 acres that make up the park, about 11 acres of that comprises the estate, the Walter Estate, at Cedar Rock State Park.

[Kohlsdorf] In 1948, Lowell and Agnes Walter commissioned renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright to build them a home.

[Kohlsdorf] Perched on a rocky bend in the Wapsipinicon River outside Quasqueton, the house was named Cedar Rock.

[Katie Hund] Cedar Rock is basically a retirement home for a local couple, Lowell and Agnes Walter. Lowell was local. He grew up farming and hunting and fishing here. When they were ready to retire from their road building business out of Des Moines, Iowa, they purchased this 11 acre property and commissioned Frank Lloyd Wright to design a retirement home. They themselves actually came across the design for this house in the Ladies Home Journal, which was a magazine in 1945 that was featuring Frank Lloyd Wright's work. And this home, the design for this house was basically like a concept house in that magazine. And it had been a model that Frank Lloyd Wright had used across the country.

[Kohlsdorf] This property stands out among Wright's designs, because the Walters left every detail to him, from the construction to the cookware.

[Katie Hund] The property itself is kind of unique in Frank Lloyd Wright's portfolio.

[Katie Hund] It's a Usonian designed home, which is more of a modern style by Frank Lloyd Wright. They were designed to be compact and efficient and affordable, although Cedar Rock is absolutely not.

[Katie Hund] We have about 1,600 square feet of glass that make up the house. The windowed walls are excellent at bringing the interior of the home right into the exterior, right into the architecture and landscape of the property. That was really Wright's goal, was this organic style of architecture. The other thing that makes Cedar Rock is unique would be the boathouse. Frank Lloyd Wright is responsible for more than 700 structures that were built worldwide. Of those, there were fewer than a handful of boat houses.

[Katie Hund] The Walter's really enjoyed living here. They knew there was a lot of interest in the house and not having any children they were also interested in finding a way to kind of preserve the home and the beauty of the property.

[Kohlsdorf] After Lowell's passing in 1981, the couple donated the property to the state of Iowa.

[Kohlsdorf] Now, the structure and surrounding land are preserved as a state park.

[Katieund] When you come through, it's kind of like the Walters just went out to lunch and you get to go through their 1950 home, which was modern at the time and I would argue still would be considered modern architecture today.

[Kohlsdorf] Visitors can tour Cedar Rock from mid-May to October, experiencing Frank Lloyd Wright's design just as the Walters left it.

[Kohlsdorf] Just off highway 20 in Dyersville, the National Farm Toy Museum gives visitors a small scale look at Iowa's biggest industry.

[Amanda Schwartz] We call ourselves the farm toy capital of the world.

[Amanda Schwartz] We have three major manufacturers that are based here historically, the Ertl Company, now known as TOMY International, as well as Scale Models and SpecCast.

[Kohlsdorf] Since its founding in 1986, the museum has collected more than 10,000 compact farm toys and ag equipment replicas. Machines in every color and style fill the shelves and display cases. Rare and international models sourced from Iowa and beyond capture the history of farming in miniature.

[Amanda Schwartz] People, I think, are amazed when they come and visit us, what we have to offer, the selection and variety. When you see it all together at once, it is a little overwhelming, but it's a lot of fun and it's been fun to curate over the years.

[Kohlsdorf] Surrounded by tiny models and die cast toys, the museum also makes room for Bernie Kluesner's handcrafted wooden implements, each one a small work of art built entirely without screws or nails.

[Bernie Kluesner] I started in 1994 making toys, and they're all wooden, put together with Elmer's wood glue, and they were put in, in a museum in 2017. Since then I made, I think, 20 more. There was 60 of them in there right now.

[Kohlsdorf] In their own small way, all of these models honor Iowa's big agricultural tradition.

[Amanda Schwartz] Farm toys evoke memories in people, even from the youngest to the oldest guests that we have. There's a connection there. Either they're carpet farmers or they were carpet farmers. It brings back memories. Oh, I had that toy or my grandpa used that tractor. There's just a lot of fun connections that have been made with people that visit our museum.

[Kohlsdorf] Driving across highway 20, the Basilica of Saint Francis Xavier is hard to miss -- with its brick spires reaching more than 200 feet above the northeast Iowa landscape. While many places of worship are known for their beauty, this one holds a special distinction.

[Father Chris Podhajsky] It's stunning and it's striking, and certainly people, as soon as they come in the huge wooden doors, you kind of open up into a different world, which is exactly what's supposed to happen.

[Kohlsdorf] Construction of the Catholic Church was completed in 1889 to serve the region's growing congregation.

[Father Chris Podhajsky] The German families who built this church and the surrounding churches, they literally mortgaged their farms, put their own family livelihood and their existence at stake because they saw building a church for God to be that important. This is what the end result was, was this magnificent, cathedral like basilica.

[Kohlsdorf] In recognition of its exceptional architecture, the church was designated as a basilica in 1956 by Pope Pius the 12th.

[Father Chris Podhajsky] There are not many basilicas around. Basilica simply means seat and it means a papal seat, actually, and that some churches throughout the world, besides the churches that are in Rome itself, the Pope says that's a particular church because of its beauty, its historical significance and so he kind of, as it were, the Pope claims it as one of his own.

[Kohlsdorf] Often located in large cities, it is especially rare to find a basilica in a rural area. Travelers come from around the world to see this landmark up close.

[Father Chris Podhajsky] This is Iowa heritage. You don't have to be German to appreciate it. You don't have to be Catholic to appreciate it, or even Christian. I routinely greet people from Nebraska and Kansas, Oklahoma, California. Worldwide, I've had people from Europe and Asia. And sometimes I try to remind them to sign the guest book just so we get an idea. But I figure only about a third or half to a third of the people might find the guest book and sign it. It's amazing how, you know, we're in Iowa and we often don't think, what in Iowa would people come here for? They come here for this. They come here for this all the time.

[Kohlsdorf] Pull off highway 20 in Dubuque for a high flying adventure. Sky Tours Zipline, located in the historic Union Park, gives visitors a bird's eye view of the northeast Iowa landscape. It's a thrilling outdoor experience that doesn't require any special training, just a willingness to make the leap. One of our guides today, Joel Smith, is an expert in soaring between the treetops. He'll tell us what it takes to get off the ground.

[Joel Smith] We have a nine line zip line course. We like to say it's progressive, meaning that it starts off a little bit lower and slower than the lines get higher, longer, faster as you go. Predominantly ground to ground zip lines. But we also have one platform where you zip out and land at about 45 feet of elevation, then zip off of that afterwards. We take groups anywhere from 2 to 12 on a tour with a full tour of 12 people. It takes about two hours. We have a minimum age limit of ten. In my time here, I've had up to 93 years old, so we see everything in between.

[Kohlsdorf] What do you say to people who come and are excited but are maybe a little afraid of heights?

[Joel Smith] With our first couple lines being again a little bit lower and slower, they're almost like bunny hills at a ski slope, so you get a chance to get comfortable in the equipment and get a feel for it before we do anything too wild and crazy.

[Kohlsdorf] What's the fun of zip lining?

[Joel Smith] It's a safe way to experience heights. You get to be up in the air. You get to fly through the wind. It feels a little bit like you're riding a bicycle, except the wheels are above your head instead of underneath your feet.

[Kohlsdorf] That's a good way to describe it.

[Joel Smith] My favorite part is the people that are a little bit nervous when they come out, and just getting to see them conquer their fears and overcome any trepidation they might have about it. I think it's good to get out of your comfort zone a little bit. It is a really unique experience. There's nothing really else quite like this one.

[Kohlsdorf] Do you encourage people to get out of their comfort zones, right, to give this a try. So I'm going to do it today.

[Joel Smith] All right. Let's go get geared up.

[Kohlsdorf] Okay. Let's go.

[Jillian Mootz] The first thing we're going to do is take your harness off the hook and hold it like this in front of you. You can sit down. You can step through the waist into the legs, and then you're gonna stand up and pull it up above your belly button.

[Kohlsdorf] Like a pair of pants.

[Jillian Mootz] Like a pair of pants. You're gonna want this as tight as possible because all of your weight is gonna hang from here. So then we take the lanyard, we put the yellow loop through the blue loop and all of the metal through this.

[Kohlsdorf] So this is the thing that holds me on the zip line. 

[Jillian Mootz] Yes, this lanyard, these carabiners will attach to the trolley. And the trolley is what hooks you to the zip line. Last is the helmet.

[Kohlsdorf] Am I gonna have helmet head?

[Jillian Mootz] I think it depends on how much you sweat. Okay, then we'll tighten it first and then.

[Kohlsdorf] Ta da! I'm ready.

[Joel Smith] If you're ready, you can step up on the box and just watch your head there as you walk in.

[Joel Smith] Put the trolley on the cable here.

[Kohlsdorf] Okay.

[Joel Smith] Carabiner.

[Joel Smith] Harness looks good and the helmet is on and we are ready to roll here.

[Kohlsdorf] Just sit back.

[Joel Smith] Just sit back and pick your feet up like you're riding on wheels.

[Kohlsdorf] I am a little nervous now. Okay, okay, I can do this. Here we go.

[screaming]

[Kohlsdorf] Oh my gosh.

[screaming]

[Kohlsdorf] Oh my God. 

[Kohlsdorf] I did it!

[Jillian Mootz] Ready zip.

[Joel Smith] Zip is clear. 

[Jillian Mootz] Zipping.

[Joel Smith] Zip away.

[Kohlsdorf] Whoa!

[Kohlsdorf] Oh my God. Oh my gosh. Oh wow. This is really high. 

[Kohlsdorf] That's quick. That's an adrenaline rush right there.

[Joel Smith] There we go. Whenever you're ready.

[Kohlsdorf] So just sort of -- 

[Joel Smith] Just kind of step down. If you're nervous, just look straight ahead atJillian. Just kind of sit back into your harness and kick your feet up, okay?

[Kohlsdorf] Oh my God. Okay. Not scared. Not scared at all. Just having fun.

[Kohlsdorf] Oh, I did it. 

[Jillian Mootz] You did it!

[Kohlsdorf] Yay! I was sky high. 

[Jillian Mootz] Sky high at Sky Tours. 

[Kohlsdorf] That is tuly scary. Okay, I did it. Okay.

[Kohlsdorf] Dubuque's Millwork district was once home to two of the nation's largest mill working companies. Today, the large brick structures are being transformed into a vibrant destination in Iowa's oldest city. In the heart of this historic neighborhood, Brazen Open Kitchen serves approachable Midwestern fare with a creative twist.

[Kevin Scharpf] I would say if you're road tripping and you make a trip to Dubuque and you want to come check out Brazen, first and foremost, it is meant to just be lively and energetic and give you an uplifting vibe. I would say that we have a little bit of something for everybody. We're very playful at Brazen, and we can take something that seems very average or very just, you know, the run of the mill, but we'll do a couple twists to it that make you like, oh, that's that's that's neat.

[Kohlsdorf] Since opening in 2015, Brazen has built its menu around fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Brazen delivers chef driven cuisine that's rooted in detail and creativity.

[Kevin Scharpf] I get asked a lot, why did you choose Dubuque or what brought you to this area? And I learned in this career like community is everything. There's something special about this area. There's something special about the Midwest. And not only being born and raised in this area.

[Male Diner] It's very pleasant.

[Kevin Scharpf] My food can speak more effortlessly to to that demographic.

[Kohlsdorf] Chef Kevin Sharp's culinary talent has taken him beyond the Midwest, including a spot on season 16 of the reality competition TV series Top Chef and recognition as a 2022 James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Best Chef Midwest. But it's cooking for his community that he finds most rewarding.

[Kevin Scharpf] The best part of cooking for not only your own community, but for a small community, is they're not necessarily driven by what they're told to like, magazines, TV, or any of those things. They're driven by what they truly like. That is a chef when you can take some of your big city experiences, or when you're very aware of what's happening in the trends for the food scene, you can find a way to take that food and not only fulfill yourself, but then make it in a way that makes your small community happy and thrive and enjoy it. There's something about that accomplishment that's a lot different than cooking for people that are told what they should like or what the hot trends are. We don't always get that luxury, so pretty fulfilling.

[Kohlsdorf] Highway 20 takes travelers on a coast to coast journey across America, passing directly through the scenic landscapes of northeast Iowa.

[Kohlsdorf] We spent time in the great outdoors at George Wyth State Park in Waterloo.

[Kohlsdorf] Visited a Frank Lloyd Wright designed home in Quasqueton.

[Kohlsdorf] Toured Dyersville’s historic Saint Francis Xavier Basilica. And soared through the tree tops outside Dubuque at Sky Tours Zipline. 

[Kohlsdorf] Perfect for a day trip or a long weekend visit, northeast Iowa has something for everyone along highway 20. For more on the history, culture and landscapes along Iowa's highways, join us next time on Road Trip Iowa.

[Announcer] Musco Lighting is an Iowa company that travels across the US and to more than 125 countries to light community recreation fields, stadiums, airports, monuments and more. While our reach is global, we're committed to our local communities. 

[Announcer] Beverly Thomassen Schultz -- honored to support local programming on Iowa PBS.